Berlin...So Far

I'm finally starting to settle into life here in Berlin. It's a really beautiful city, with a rich history...a part of it quite tragic but many parts really lovely. The people are very friendly, healthy and serious. I can hardly find any garbage on the street, and nary a cigarette butt which will make Joel very happy. There are parks everywhere, mostly along the River Spree and out side of the city center, or "Mitte" and the public transportation system is outstanding. Actually, one of the best I've seen. There is the U-Bahn, which is the underground metro system that runs throughout the entire city and beyond. There is the S-Bahn, which is the overground train system that is easy to catch and runs all over as well. Then, there are also trams and buses that run continuously throughout the day, and a one way on most will cost around 1 Euro, depending on your destination.

I'm staying in Tiergarten, on the West side of town right on the river Spree with the Bayer-Pfohl family, in a beautiful flat, in a quiet, yet centrally located neighborhood. They are cousins with Carmen, my good friend who worked with me at CHOW. Joaquim, is the dad and is a family therapist and Fritz is 17 and plays in a band. Carla is the mom, and I didn't get to meet her because she is back in Buffalo visiting family. Originally, I was going to house-sit, but Fritz's band won some competition, so Jo and he stayed behind for the finals and then they will join Carla later in the month. They are really sweet and helpful, but I rarely see them...we just pass in the halls, but I have run of the flat and the computer, which is amazing! I was originally going to check into a hostel for the Love Parade because I thought it would be more central, but apparently it ends right down the street, so I cancelled and will stay to the 20th, and then off to London to regroup and then start another adventure here on the continent. I'm going with Fritz to see Damian Marley on Thursday, he's never seen him and loves Reggae. I sprang for his ticket because well, they are putting me up and also he went and got them and is taking me to the club. Yippee!!! He is also going to download my photos onto CD and then hopefully...fingers crossed, after 5 weeks of no photos uploaded to my blog....maybe I will luck out and GET ER DUNNNN!!!

OM

I have also met the sweetest people from Nepal, who own a restaurant called "OM" which is Nepalese and Indian Food. A couple of guys in their 30's own the place, Bazmati (I call him Bazi) and his partner who's name escapes me so we will call him Max. Max is married to a German girl named Carol who is an absolute doll, she is an actress and of course, helps out in the restaurant. So, the funny thing is, on the first night I arrived I went out and came back to go to bed when I discovered that the keys were funky euro-style and I didn't know how to work them (just like my Amsterdam/park bench experience...) so I went downstairs to have a beer and wait for Jo to get home. I get in there and immediately they are asking me where am I from, and telling me about how they love San Francisco and have another beer and how
"N E P A L" means "never-ending-peace-and-love" and giving me more beer. So, Bazi walks by and notices my "OM" tattoo and tells everyone to come and look at it so the next thing I know all the waiters and cooks are coming out to look at my tattoo. Ever since, I am accosted on the street, dragged in, given free food and drink and asked to come back anytime. Baz is relentless in his pursuit, however, and it's kind of funny...I have never been pursued by a Nepali guy but in all honesty, he is really cute. He's got long curly hair and brown eyes, really modern dude. Not for me though, but it's fun!

THE FAN MILE

So, the CUP FINAL! Wow, I can't even believe there is no more footy. I am jonesing for a match, but I have to say, I am over the chanting, face paint and flag waving. I think my last update was the night that Germany won 3rd place and Berlin erupted into a frenzy. The next day, I went back to the "Fan Mile" which is a fan fest that each German host city put on for the duration of the Cup. This one ran from the Brandenburg Gate to the Victory Angel which meant they had to close off the Strasse de 17, Juni, which is the main thoroughfare through the city. I still can't imagine the massive planning and execution this required and am amazed that they pulled it off. There were tents galore, a ferris wheel, beer gartens, giant screens, speakers, porta potties (.50 cents to use, but clean) food, naked people painted in flag colors, beach volleyball, disco's, and millions of people from all over the world. It was a once in a lifetime deal, alright, and I' so glad I had my wits about me enough to make it here.

I went to the Fan Fest on the last day around noon and had no idea what I was in for. The German football team showed up to thank the fans and I was right there! It was hot and crowded and people had been on the beer since early that morning so they were especially rowdy, but not aggressive. German flags everywhere, weird costumes, face paint, and the songs! These people will sing to anything. They just start the song with "Deutschland" and follow it up with "it's hot out today" or "let's drink another beer" all in German of course, but someone was telling me and I was completely cracking up. And, it's to the same melody everytime and it will eternally stuck in my head.

As the day passed, I walked through town and purchased my much coveted "doner" kebab and bottle of Beck's and took photos of footy fans from around the globe. I can't wait to upload them! Then, I went back to the flat, was accosted for another beer at OM, took a nap, then got into combat mode for the big finish.

I-TAL-IA!!!!

As I walked the Fan Mile for the last time, I was once again struck by the international crowd. Literally people from all over the world, speaking so many languages, dancing to the same music, all there for one reason: to see Italy play France in the final. It must be like the Olypmpics, but unlike the Olmpics which has so many events, this is one event that the whole world watches at once.
I would say the crowd was 50/50, mostly because so many Germans were going for France since they lost to Italy in the semi-final. It was impossible to see on the big screen because I'm vertically challenged, but I found a place inside with a TV. The catch was that it was literally 500 degrees in said Chateau, so I had to keep going outside. Now, as you may imagine, people have been drinking beer in the hot sun for hours so when I say thousands of completely smashed people, I am making an understatemnt. Singing the damn songs, leaning on eachother and at one point, this German guy was so smashed he was doing the wobbly dance with a beer and almost fell on me. Luckily, I had the good sense to stick to Coca-Cola all night because I knew it was going to get ugly. Then, of course, Italy won in penalty kicks and that was that. No more cup, no more footy and NO MORE SONGS!

WRONG! The songs continued throughout the night, into the morning. I was out dancing until about 8 a.m. walking through all these party tents they had set up all over the city and they just didn't stop driving around with flags, chanting, getting hammered...the whole shabang. It was an experience alright, but if I never hear another stupid football song, it will be too soon. That is, unless I can somehow make it to South Africa for World Cup 2010...hehehehe. What can I say, I am addicted.

Good God!

I ended up meeting some nice German guys who looked after me while we all ran around under the beautiful full moon and into the morning. They were going to show me how to get back to the S-Bahn but one had to stop at his place and get some things for work, so we all stopped at his flat. Okay, for all you FRIENDS fans, have you ever seen the episode where Ross dates Rebecca Romijn and her apartment is the most disgusting hole on the face of the planet? Right, so times that by infinity and well, this is the flat of one German guy named Ben and I said "dude, if you ever even think about bringing a girl back here...well, you are never going to get any action because this is the most foul, disgusting hovel I have ever seen!" I mean, I can't even describe it, it would take too long. It looked like a combination of your dirtiest neighbors garage and a frat house after a party. Lordy, I was afraid to use the bathroom because I thought something would jump out and bite me! Yikes! I made it out alive and came back to the palace on Kirchstrasse, by the Spree, next to OM, my home for 10 more days. Whoo Hoo!

DESERTED

Yesterday I made it back to the ruins of the Fan Mile and it was a complete disaster, but so interesting to know that it was jammed the day before. People were just kind of walking around, dazed and confused and all of the sudden I look around and every German guy disassembling the scaffolding and other buildings were shirtless and gorgeous and I didn't have my camera and started drooling and stuttering and decided to run back to Chez Bayer and grab my camera because I needed someone to witness the perfection of these men! Soooo stereotypical, but nonetheless absolutely gorgeous. Tall, buff, tan, shirtless, no chest hair, blonde spikey hair...ever freaking one of them! So, I got the camera, walked all the way back and from the bushes, started taking pictures with my telephoto feature. Oh mamma. I have one that would stop traffic. Can't wait to blow it up and put in on the ceiling of every bunk I stay in for the next few months. Of course, I didn't even think about talking to any of them. German guys are not like the Czech boys, they are quite aloof and into themselves. Very friendly, but the situation must dictate why and how you would strike up a conversation. It can't be forced or pervy. Of course, the Love Parade will be a whole different beast, as it is an implied situation designed to bring people together. (Can't freaking WAIT!)

OM...AGAIN

I ended my evening at OM, but I think I was a little bit tricked by Mr. Bazi. As I walked home and he accosted me, he told me that there would be a Nepalese/Indian dancer at the place around 7 and that I should come for dinner and see. Fine, I wanted to eat there anyway, and this time pay because I felt bad that they never charge me. I get there promptly at 7 and ooops! It's a private 60th birthday party for some German man and his family of 40. Oh no, not to worry says Bazi, you just sit here and I'll take care of you. The dancer walks in and Carol is there and Rajendra, who works for the Embassy, and I say..."okay, I can wait." Well, the dancer doesn't go on until 9:30, and despite the coconut milk soup I was being fed, I'm starving and getting buzzed on some Nepalese grain alcohol that keeps appearing out of no where and they are so busy with this party and before I know it it's 1 a.m. and I almost left but I felt bad because they are so nice! Anyway, we sat down to a nice family meal but by that time I was too tired to eat, but I had some curry and rice and watched Bazi devour a whole plate of rice and lamb with his fingers.

Today, I've just been trying to catch up on e-mails and post. Still in my jammies, drinking tea but will take a walk to the river and sit in the sun for a while. It'S freaking hotter than hot out, so I will continue to sweat and smell and pretend I don't. Tomorrow, off to take pictures of the Reichstag, CheckPoint Charlie and the Book Burning Square, among other things. Also hoping to get back to Ost Point, my communist bar that I discovered the last time I was here. I would also like to find a book about the Wall. Crazy. Chances are, I will be accosted by Bazi, so might change my route. LATERS!