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Location: San Francisco, Northern Cali

GYPSY: (noun) One inclined to a nomadic, unconventional way of life. The first time I traveled alone I was 4. My mom pinned a note to my dress then put me on a plane from Atlanta to L.A. to visit my dad for the summer. That must have marked the beginning of my insatiable wanderlust because I can't seem to get enough of running away from home. In the mean time, I've spent my life between a career in the media and years in the hospitality industry. My independence has kept me single but that's a part of life when your first love is travel. I've been robbed in Australia and slept on a park bench in Amsterdam, but at the end of the day, I was on the road and that's where I'm most at home.

Thursday, May 18, 2006

Edinburgh




My train left Friday morning, May the 5th around 10:30 from King's Cross station for a Northern bound ride from London to Edinburgh with no transfers. Now, this is becoming increasingly important because the bloody train and tube system is deep and vast and one can get just about anywhere using this method. HOWEVER! They also have a tendency to break down, have delays, have alternative bussing and are generally frustrating. You have to really be diligent to get to and fro and I'm finding that one of my biggest challenges is travel and it will continue to be I'm certain. Finding my destination and later arriving is becoming the thrill of any day.

So, I lug my backpack and day pack from Streatham, leaving around 7 a.m. "just to be sure" and after 3 transfers I make it to King's Cross around 10, just in time to pop into the loo, which costs £.20 and find my train at platform 9. I ask the porter "is this going to Edinburgh?" Yep, I found it and life was going to be grand! I walk into the cabin where she pointed and literally my jaw dropped because the tables were decked out with coffee cups and doilies and I thought "dang, these trains are cool...I had no idea!" So I put my bags away, put on my fluffy pink socks, fire up the I-pod and the train pulls out right on time! Yippee!
Then, these people from no where start coming around with a trolly full of beverages, like tea, coffee, juice, cookies, etc and they are just as sweet as could be. I thought "dang! these people are nice...I had no idea!" I had a few cups of tea and a shortbread cookie and they even offered to go and get me something from the buffet while I just sat there in my fluffy slippers, munching away, sipping away, rocking out to the Red Hot Chili Peppers. I thought "dang! I am such a bad ass...I had NO IDEA!" My next move was to the potty, which was clean and posh with a shaving area and pretty soaps and a great mirror with a light and I was just really amazed by the whole affair until I stepped outside and saw a big sign that read "FIRST CLASS PASSENGERS ONLY!" I thought "dang, I'm a complete idiot...I had no idea!"

While I slither back to my seat, praying that I don't have to suffer the humiliation of being frog-marched down to the ghetto section, I notice that someone is coming around checking tickets. I remembered that mine was just sitting out like a neon sign reading "this girl is poaching a first class seat" and I was just about to say something when the dude calmly punched my little ticket, smiled and said "welcome aboard." Good God! Dodged that bullet and just kept my ticket hidden the entire way up.

The train is a perfect mode of transport because the English countryside is absolutely spectacular. It's just like the movies, rolling green hills, little farms and brick houses and fields and fields of yellow flowers that look like mustard. (Someone corrected me and told me what it was but alas, I have forgotten.)We passed through York, which I couldn't really see, and Newcastle, which I hear is a really fun town. We saw some coastline which reminded me of Mendocino and then it appeared like my own personal mecca...EDINBURGH! I officially had the chills and may have shed a tear or two. I was coming home to spawn.

EDINBURGH

Edinburgh is a young, vibrant city with cobblestone streets and windy passageways. The capital of Scotland, it has everything from the Scottish Parliament, to Roman Ruins, from a bustling port to packed pubs and cafes. It's built around Edinburgh Castle where fireworks and bagpipes fill the air during their many summer festivals. You can walk around the Royal Mile, or climb up the many ally ways, called "closes" where little apartments and churches hide right off the main road. I loved "Grass Market," the booming nightlife section, where stag parties roam the streets like packs of jackals waiting for the kill. (I swear, I must have "kiss me tattoed on my forhead because I attract the stags like CRAZY! Imagine me trying to avoid men, but the collective I Q becomes around 17 when these blokes get together and I run like the wind.)

When I arrived it was blazing sunny skies and about 80 degrees farenheit. I was literally walking around "rainy/foggy" Edinburgh in a tank top and sunnies. I checked into Brodies Hostel right on High Street, Royal Mile, and lugged my suitcase up the stairs to discover that the only bed in my room of 20 was on top and in the middle. Okay, kind of a pain but not to worry. I just RAN for the shower, freshened up and ran back out the door. There were many pints and Scotsmen awaiting and I wasn't going to sit in a cave!

The outdoor cafes were jammed with locals enjoying the weather and most of the seats were taken, so I just walked up to the the cute Scottish bartender and said "something cold and beery." I got a laugh from the guys around me then went to the window to watch. I usually do a walk-through of a city straight away to get my bearings, but the ride was long and I was parched. I'm in the window when I get tap on the shoulder which startled me enough, until I turn-round to see an older gentleman with yellow teeth and about 15 hairs growing out of his bulbus nose, holding a beer and smelling like a dirty ashtray from 1957. Then he starts mumbling something about having nothing to do over the weekend and would I like to join him or something and all I could do is stare at his nose and when I finally came-to from the smell of tobacco I said "oh, gosh, no thanks," chugged my beer and got the hell out of there. (I was nice mom, don't worry.) Great, was this going to be my only prospect of the night? Time for the walk through.

Now, I mentioned earlier that Edinburgh is a young city, and what I mean by that is the people are young. Most of the staff in the shops, restaurants, pubs and tourist attractions are under the age of 25 and I reckon that most of the professional offices are a little further out of the city center. There are also a lot of transplants from Australia, New Zealand, Canada and South Africa with the odd Brit or Irish thrown in for good measure. Unfortunately, I can't work there without a visa and I'm quite bitter about it so that's all I have to say about that. I stopped into a cool hostel called Belushi's during my walkabout and found 12 Brits on their stag night watching Rugby and so I turned around and ran to the next bar called "Sportsters" which has free internet and a local crowd. I met a nice Aussie dude named Brad, who was on his way to Poland and we chatted for a while until a team of Irish on their stag night came in and took over the entire bar. Before I could make a run for it, I was spotted and from there it was slightly hilarious and mildly annoying. They were absolutely TRASHED and were getting really raunchy (remember the I Q of 17?) so I had to go on the offensive and tell them they were out of line, which had to be bad because nothing offends me at all. Well, thank-god for Catholic guilt because the next thing I know they are aplogizing profusely and offering me drinks and I was like "oh sure guys, that's a safe move!" Needless to say, I ran to Grass Market and met some nice locals, danced my ass off and called it a night!

SATURDAY was pretty chill, I did some touristy stuff, walked for about 4 hours, did the postcard thing and took a late afternoon nap. After a quick freshen, I went to the pub across from Brodie's and met this mental Aussie named Tim, and his Irish friend Andy. Well, Mr. crazy Tim has decided to walk the whole of Scotland with the clothes on his back and £30. He is keeping a blog if you are interested, www.findingtim.blogspot.com

I'd forgotten how easy it was to gather people in the chill room at hostels until I just shouted "anyone up for a pint?" and about 5 people just grabbed their stuff and headed out the door with me. This is where I met Annie, a cute girl from Wales and two American guys and we all went to Grass Market for dancing and a few pints. This is where I met perhaps the most gorgeous Scotsman in the history of man kind and oddly enough, he rushed right over to talk to me as soon as I started dancing. Of course, his name...SCOT MACDONLAD! Really, Scot freakin' MacDonald. (I can't make this stuff up!) Well, we had a bit of a laugh and naturally he wanted to see me again and naturally I was leaving and naturally that is the story of my life.

SUNDAY was just chill, kind of nursed a hang over and took a walk with Annie and the boys then went to Sportsters to play pool and met these two dudes who own a golf shop called "City Golf," right in Edinburgh. They are only 23, but own their own business and can play pool like sharks. Anyway, I took it easy and went to bed early because Monday was on deck and the Haggis Bus was looming. LATERS!

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