thegypsygirl

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Location: San Francisco, Northern Cali

GYPSY: (noun) One inclined to a nomadic, unconventional way of life. The first time I traveled alone I was 4. My mom pinned a note to my dress then put me on a plane from Atlanta to L.A. to visit my dad for the summer. That must have marked the beginning of my insatiable wanderlust because I can't seem to get enough of running away from home. In the mean time, I've spent my life between a career in the media and years in the hospitality industry. My independence has kept me single but that's a part of life when your first love is travel. I've been robbed in Australia and slept on a park bench in Amsterdam, but at the end of the day, I was on the road and that's where I'm most at home.

Wednesday, August 30, 2006

"In Murphy We Trust"



...or is it the universe? Geeze, I'm almost 40 years old and I still can't manage to trust the damn universe!!! It will provide. So will Murphy. After me completely fretting (and feeling utterly sorry for myself to no avail) Murphy has come through and I will be going to meet him in Galway after all! It will be a glamourous day of picking up posters, collecting C.D.'s from a manufacturer in Limerick and then packing up the band so we can camp on the side of the road and head into the Electric Picnic! I think it will be lovely, and much better than sitting here in Dublin, crying into my Guinness. Speaking of Dublin, so much has changed since I was here last, it's way more expensive, people are too serious and frankly, it's now just like any big city. To think I came all the way here to meet every Spaniard that ever lived! That's right! All of Spain is here in Dublin on holiday. Ugh. I am going to spend the day regrouping, finding bus stops, organzing my accomodations, changing my accomodations, and basically trying to pull my head out so I can get ready for the 3 hour bus ride to Galway tomorrow.

Another crazy thing that happened yesterday, as I was on my way from Paris to Dublin, one of my favorite Reggae bands, "Israel Vibrations" came in and were on the same plane as me! I am going to see them tonight at Crawdaddy's here in Dublin. Wow. I was agog like some crazy groupie, but to thier credit, they travel like the regular folk, despite their having to do so with the remenants of polio, walking on steel crutches.

Also, on another note, I was informed today that the Celtic Cross tattoo I wanted for my 40th will not happen. "Too small," they said. Well, that's cool. I'll go ahead with another one as planned, but it will have to wait until I get to Berlin again, because they are well known for being safe and clean and reletively cheap. Prague is a no-go. Don't trust the sanitation....

Okay, well off to continue the re-group, going to take a break and have a pint of Guinness, then make a home made dinner in the fabulous kitchen here at Barnacles, then play tourist for a couple of hours in trendy DUB-town. LATERS!

Monday, August 07, 2006

Back in Paris...




Here I sit in an internet cafe, where lo and behold I have managed to procure a keyboard that isn't French! Whoo Hoo! I'm back at the Avenir hotel, in the Monmartre district of Paris, getting my bearings and preparing for 10 crazy days in Ireland. Turns out, Murphy is going crazy because UltanJohn is playing the Electric Picnic and so I may not get to see him after all. Fair enough, I'm so proud of him for getting that gig (he is managing the band now) and the Electric Picnic is Ireland's biggest 3-day music festival. It's a mini-Glastonbury, only more green and little more Irish. No worries, I am sure I can get into some fun in Ireland, although it is expensive, it will be the perfect place to mourn...I mean, celebrate, my impending 40th birthday. I suppose I could have saved money and stayed here on the continent, but the reservations have been made, schedules written down and well, it's Ireland after all. I plan to drink plenty of Guinness, get a tattoo and visit the North, which has been a dream for quite some time.

I have been trying to post the last month and have a slight neck ache from being on the computer for 2 hours, so I think I will have to save Spain updates for Ireland. I know it's better to post as I go, but sometimes, it's better to do than to write. I have notes, memories and of course, Google in a pinch.

I'm leaving tomorrow for Dublin, the airport is WAAAAY out of town so I have to get to bed early and get up early and do things like laundry, grooming, un-pack...re-pack...shower, get tickets ready. I caught up with the Bosnians last night and had a pasta feed while we watched "Law and Order" in French. Sad to say goodbye again, I think I will treat myself to a bowl of French Onion soup, a croque monsieur and a half carafe of red at the Marmitre, a little joint accross from my hotel. Why not, it's my birthday week and I could use a hot meal as it has been raining for 6 days now.

***Quick note, I am in the internet cafe/call center and this haitian woman is screaming at someone at the other end of her phone call...very irritating...yet interesting.*** Wait, there is another one doing the same thing so I guess they are like Russians and Italians, they just "yell" to get their point accross.***

I have to report that I did a minor...well I was gutted so I will have to say "major" travel rookie screw up. I wanted to fly from Dublin to Munich so I could catch the bus going to Venice but I didn't look hard enough and ended up booking a cheap flight to Salzburg, so I have to catch the bus there and go on stand-by, get to Munich...thus losing my deposits on all accomodations and rebooking...then off to Venice around mid-September. Alas, Airlingus flies right to Munich the day I need, for cheap and I am screwed. Lesson learned, never give-up because flights are cheap! Crap, oh well. I'm off to check train times to Beauvais Airport, transfer my ever-dwindling funds to accounts and well, have that precious bowl of French love. Will try to post in Dublin, will cost an arm and a leg, but since I will be there for a few days, I will have plenty of time. LATERS!

San Sebass



Well, here I sit in an internet cafe´in San Sebastian, the Basque region of Spain and the last 15 days have been a crazy ride. Barcelona was a blur, should have stayed longer, Valencia was amazing and Madrid was also a blur...so much night life and tapas! This is by far my favorite and I could live here easily. The town itself is surrounded by three beaches, each with a view of small mountains and a statue of Jesus like in Rio. It was sunny the first two days and now it has been raining since yesterday. I slept on the beach one night with a bunch of French people and it was perhaps the most amazing night time view I have had in weeks. I wish I had the temerity to keep writing but there is a whole town out there to visit and since I leave tomorrow I want to go and have a last look. The people are amazing , the pinchos are incredible and the fresh hard cider is not to be missed. Tonight I am going to eat these pinchos (tapas) until I burst and since there are more bars and restaurants per capita here than anywhere in Europe, it won´t be a problem. Ta for now, sorry I have been the lame blogger, but duty calls. At least I have taken notes and will try to update in Paris, but the keyboards are a nightmare so I don´t know how that will go. I tell you though, you will lose me again in Ireland. That´s just how it goes. LATERS!

Avignon



Here I am at one of those frustrating French computers once again...the keyboards are all over the place so I have to peck away and it takes forever! Anyway, I am currently in Avignon in the Provence region of France, slightly Northwest of Nice. It's your typical fortified European town with the obligatory castle, cobblestone streets and outdoor cafès. It has a papal history dating back to the 1200's and before that, a place for sailors to gamble and reunite with their favorite "special" lady....of the night. Legend has it, the term "Red Light" originated here. Legend also has it that the popes were all required to live in Rome after this period because they may have been dabbling in the debauchery.

I've been able to relax a little here and regroup for Spain as I am quite certain that I won't be sleeping in Barcelona and Valencia will be a total beachy blur from detoxing and sunning myself at the topless beach! When I was in Nice I was able to download photos in advance and go back in to edit and add stories so they will end up in order but I won't be posting in order because Paris requires a LOT of detail and Nice et, al was just a blast and requires some special attention as well. Oh, and Lauterbrunnen and the Swiss Alps...mamma! So I will try to catch up at a better computer and I also left my notebook in my room and there is a crazy lockout from 2 to 5 p.m.

This has been a couple of fun days, I got a bed for 10 euro per night at a campground and will no doubt need the money save as I have just spent $1000 on booking tours and accomodation for the next 6 weeks. And, of course, LA Bartha is going to cost a LOT! Oh well, that is why I am here I guess. I also hooked up with a few fun folks at the campground. Jen, a divorced mother of two who went on Busabout with here daughter for 5 weeks...totally cool chick from OZ, raised in Malaysia, boarding school in Scotland. Puts me to shame! Then, 2 Canuks... Andy the teacher who will literally talk to anyone! He is like a force of nature, quite kooky and yet loveable. Next we have Mike from Vancouver, 18, just out of high school, totally green and just muddling through from town to town getting ripped off but having the time of his life. Markus from Schwiez and two German dudes are biking around Europe and then Sara and Fabio, a brother sister duo from a tiny town in the Italian Alps. We threw down a few at the Irish Pub last night and said our good bye's this morning.

Off to BarTHElona manana...probably will be M.I.A. until Valencia. ADIOS!

Nice, etc...



Nice is....NICE! This blog finds me in Nice August 4-8th, and while I was kind of apprehensive driving in, (the city is massive and the streets torn up due to a tram project, I ended up having such a wonderful time! This was due in part to the great weather, views and topless beaches (yippee!) but mostly because I met some of the nicest people of my whole entire trip!

Nice is a massive city on the Cote d'Azur, and while it is not a tiny little village like the rest of the neighborhood, it is a great starting point to all close cities, like Monaco, St. Tropez and Cannes. I was able to go to all three by train, as the station was right by my hotel. For about $6 Euro, you can go to any coastal town on the train and the trains run about every 1/2 hour. I have already written about this, in the next blog, but suffice to say, this a an amazing region and if you have the money for a yaught you will fit right in. Oh, you also have to be the color of a redwood tree.

The beaches in Nice are also rocky, which I liked. No sand in your bum, and a bit of a massage as you sun yourself, although this is where I lost my bathing suit top so I have been winging it with tank tops, macrame' halters and anything to cover me up until I hit the beach.

The first night we all checked into the hotel and went to the beach for a midnight picnic. Our Dutch tour guide, Jules, proceeded to serenade us with his guitar and we all drank cheap wine and ate cheese. (Yes this is a theme in France.) We stumbled back around 2 a.m. and it was good because I was due to go on a cruise around St. Tropez the next day.

The cruise was pretty cheesy, it ended up to be more of a booze cruise than a real cruise, and it was run by an Irish guy with a bad sense of humor...it rained like crazy and we just sat there, looking at these mansions, drinking warm beer. It was $17 euro and I wouldn't do it again.

I also met a ton of really cool Aussie couples, including Belinda and Brad from Melbourne, David and Nadia from Perth who will be popping in and out of stories, and a Spanish guy who I just called "map guy" because he was so anal about his maps that it just became annoying. He was our roomate and came for the Stones show but ended up guiding us around with his damn maps. He came in handy but couldn't sit still long enough to enjoy where his damn maps were taking him! I did, however, realize there are 2 kinds of travelers. There are the map people who are great to have around but you want to leave them eventually, and there are the non map people (that is me) who can read a map, but find it more enjoyable to follow the wind. Sure, if you want to see every single sight, the map is good. If you want to chill, find little treasures and people watch, the map is lame.

The last day I went to Cannes with map guy and a lovely couple I met in a pub at the last minute as I was walking home from the Old Town after a couple of beers. Maja and Stefan are from the very North of Sweden where they...yes, are reindeer herders! They had never been out of their country, and they were absolutely adorable! Complete toe-heads, of course, indigenous Swedes who were the salt of the earth. They have invited me up to their village to help herd and slaughter their reindeer, and if I can I will. I bet that would be quite a hoot! Of course, it would be 80 below and I would have to wear a reindeer suit, but completely worth it!
We went to Cannes together, and while Cannes is lovely it is again for the rich and famous and since I am neither, I suppose the one day event was plenty.

All in all, I loved Nice and would go back in an instant, this time I would also go to Marselles, but I will explain that one later.

Lauterbrunnen



Leaving Paris, I was a little sad because of the friends I had made, but over the moon at the opportunity to visit Switzerland. I had heard so many wonderful things, the natural beauty, the cleanliness and the precision with which the Swiss run their country. As we drove the big blue bus through the Alps, I knew I wouldn't be dissappointed.

As I got on the bus, Janine, my Kiwi roommate from room # 11 at the Avenir, ran up to me and said "what happened to you!" I explained the Bosnian wedding story to her and the fact that I just disappear when I feel like I am going to have an amazing experience. The wedding story reached far and wide and the only part I regret is not having my camera...I never take my camera out at night, so I am pictureless.

We drove down through France and into Switzerland which took about 8 hours in total. We stopped in Bern, the capital and discovered it was Swiss day so it being a legal holiday, nothing was open or happening except for the ubiquitous firecrackers being set off by teen age boys. (They are the same everywhere!) Since I missed my bus in Paris due to said wedding, I had to miss Bern, but every report I got was that it was fine, Bern is lovely but not too exciting. It is quite lovely, another gorgeous European town with little chateaus, centuries old buildings and a river running through. I took a few photos and jumped back on the bus, looking forward to "Lauters."

As we arrived in Interlaken, I felt like I was back home in California. Just like the Sierra Nevadas, all these little towns have lakes and valleys and mountains, but unlike Cali, this place is green year-round. The bus pick up point is a campground called "Camping Jungfrau" right in-between two mountains, each with impressive water falls and dotted with Swiss chalet homes, restaurants and stores. It reminded me a bit of Yosemite Valley, with Half Dome and El Cap as the backdrop....but GREEN! I was a little worried about a campground, since I have no equipment, but we were afforded really cute 4-person cabins for $15 Swiss Francs per night, which worked out to be around $12 U.S. dollars.

This was a time for me to chill out, enjoy nature, take hikes and eat ROSTI, the local specialty. It's basically hash browns with different ingredients like ham, cheese, bacon, onions, mushrooms...you name it! Imagine all the things you could put into an omlette or a crepe...Same concept but with gooey, buttery hash browns! I also indulged in a gorgeous fondue with my cabin mates, for about $20 U.S. dollars I had my fill of bread and cheese, 2 glasses of wine and some Swiss chocolate! I also ventured out for about a 5 hour hike, and viewed the awesome Alps from a local trail. It was sunny the first day, then rained like crazy and it felt like autumn but was perfect for the scenery. I avoided the cost of the extreme sport activites, but they host a variety, including parasailing, skydiving and river rafting. If you are also in the mood and have the money, you can pay around $150 Euro for a train ride to the Jungfrau, or "Top of Europe." This is the highest point in Europe with a restaurant and train station and on a clear day, you can see the entire Alps from top to bottom. I skipped it, but the reports I got back were cold, snowy and foggy...but worth it. As the first night was "Swiss Day" still, we were treated to a host of fireworks right up against the mountain with the waterfall as a back drop. It was incredible, and while the Swiss have a reputation for being staid and quiet, they really know how to celebrate thier day.

As for the people I met, it was pretty quiet here, lots of European families on holiday, in fact, I think the whole of Europe was represented at the campground, tons of kids and scout groups as well as extended clans who camp there each summer, complete with caravans, campers, satellite dishes and fishing gear. I did meet a group of base jumpers...that's right, they strap on their gear and jump off mountains...and they were interested and a little bit crazy. I guess you would have to be. I kept wondering "why would you wear knee pads and a helmet if you are going to crash, you are going to crash!" But, I guess some of the landings can be rough, especially when the angry farmer comes after you with a machete as soon as you land on his property. I did meet one cat named Branden from Pleasant Hill of all places, who was just released from active duty in Iraq and was off to do private work in Mosul. We had an interesting conversation and I ended up giving him a Joe Peace piece, to put in his pocket for good luck.

After 3 nights and 2 days of Rosti, fondu, hiking and taking it easy, it was time for Nice and since my friend Debbie lived there, I thought I would splurge and stay for 5 nights. It would turn out to be a great decision.

Lifestyles of...


...the rich and spoiled! Here I am in the beautiful French Riviera, just a gog over the wealth of St. Tropez, Monaco, Monte Carlo...et al. Nice is lovely, a bigger city than I ever imagined and somehow I thought the beach was right here...full of sand and topless beauties. Just have to take a train to find that! I keep thinking of Deb and the fact that she lived here, what a smart girl. She is always 10 steps ahead of me but live and learn!

Been on the computer for an hour and a half, the internet is cheap here so I am taking advantage but I am getting weary as I have booked as far ahead as October for Rome and am going to Greece for 10 days starting the 18th of September. In between, I will cry in my Guinness for my 40th in Ireland, and after will spend 2 nights in St. Johan in Tirol, Austria, then onto Venice for 5 nights, Ancona for 3 then take the ferry to Athens, or fly or something. I also need to find a way from Dublin to Munchen...I thought it was as easy as booking Ryanair or Easy Jet but neither fly direct. Will try again.

Paris was absolutely fantastic, will blog the details but suffice to say I was abducted by a band of crazy Bosnians and ended up at a wedding and think I might have married a ninety year old grandma, the Vodka was flowing and just like the Ukrainians, they don't take no for an answer!

Must run now, am getting tired of sitting here while the sun is shining and there are rays to catch and promenades to traverse! LATERS!